How to Lay Geotextile Fabric?

I see projects fail because bases pump mud, fines migrate, and gravel vanishes. You want a simple way to stop that. You want a base that passes inspection and lasts.

You lay geotextile fabric on a prepared subgrade, overlap seams by 12–24 inches, pin the sheet, and backfill in thin lifts with proper compaction. Choose non woven geotextile fabric for filtration and drainage or woven geotextile fabric for separation and strength. Then lock edges and maintain.

I explain what geotextile is, where it works, and the full step-by-step method for driveways, roads, and yards. I keep specs plain and testable, so you can buy the right roll, lay it fast, and move on.

What is geotextile?

The wrong fabric will clog or tear. The right fabric will breathe, separate, and protect the base.

A geotextile is a permeable engineering fabric that separates soil layers, filters water, drains laterally, and protects liners or bases from puncture. Non woven geotextile fabric favors filtration and cushioning. Woven geotextile fabric favors tensile strength and low elongation for separation and reinforcement.

Families and how they work

I group geotextiles by structure. Non woven geotextile fabric is needle-punched or heat-bonded fibers. It lets water pass while holding fines. It also adds cushion and puncture resistance under angular aggregate. Woven geotextile fabric is interlaced yarns. It delivers high tensile per gsm and low stretch. It is good at separation on soft ground and load transfer into the base. There are also hybrid and knitted options, but most procurement comes down to these two.

The functions you specify

I write specifications by function. Separation stops subgrade fines from mixing with base aggregate. Filtration lets water move across a soil–fabric boundary without washing fines. Drainage moves water in-plane to outlets. Protection shields liners or membranes from puncture. Reinforcement shares load and reduces rutting. One fabric can serve more than one function, but I state the primary one in the PO.

Quick property map

I keep three numbers in front of buyers: AOS (apparent opening size), permittivity (cross-plane flow), and tensile/elongation. For filtration against silty soils, I pick a non woven with an AOS matched to soil D85–D90. For road separation over soft subgrade, I pick a woven with high tensile and adequate CBR puncture. For liner protection, I choose a heavy non woven and confirm thickness under load.

Type	Primary function	Typical gsm	AOS (indicative)	Permittivity (indicative)	Tensile/elongation	Common uses
Non woven needle-punched	Filtration, cushion	150–600	Small–medium	Medium–high	Medium tensile, higher strain	French drains, subgrade filter, liner pad
Woven slit-film/monofilament	Separation, strength	120–300	Medium	Low–medium	High tensile, low strain	Road base over soft soils, yards, pads
Heavy non woven	Protection, filtration	400–1200	Small	Medium	High puncture resistance	Geomembrane protection, landfill caps

When I ship under our MJY geotextile line, I attach roll labels and lot certificates with these values. This saves time on site and during inspection.

What are the applications of geotextiles?

Bad base layers cost rework. Good base layers save gravel, stop mud pumping, and keep edges stable.

Geotextiles go in roads, gravel driveways, parking pads, rail yards, embankments, French drains, retaining wall backdrains, sports fields, and green projects. They separate, filter, drain, and protect. I choose non woven for flows and fines. I choose woven for separation and tensile control.

Groundworks that benefit most

I start with soft subgrade. If the subgrade has high moisture or low bearing, a woven layer prevents aggregate from punching through. The fabric spreads load and keeps the top course clean. For French drains and edge drains, a non woven prevents soil from entering the stone while letting water pass. For retaining walls, a non woven against the soil side of the backfill stops fines from entering the drain gravel and pipe. For landfill capping or pond lining, heavy non wovens add cushion under the geomembrane.

Matching fabric to task

I match fabric based on failure mode. If you fight contamination between soil and base, use woven geotextile fabric with adequate tensile and CBR puncture. If you fight clogging in drains, use non woven geotextile fabric with an AOS that matches the soil gradation and a permittivity that meets flow. If you protect liners, use heavy non woven with thickness retained under load.

Application menu with quick picks

Application	Primary risk	Preferred fabric	Key checks on PO
Gravel driveway over clay	Mixing, rutting	Woven 150–220 gsm	Tensile (wide-width), CBR puncture
French drain in silt	Clogging	Non woven 150–250 gsm	AOS vs soil, permittivity
Retaining wall backdrain	Fines migration	Non woven 200–300 gsm	AOS, grab strength, UV during install
Patio base over loam	Mixing	Woven 120–180 gsm	Tensile, seam strength, overlap detail
Liner protection under angular fill	Puncture	Non woven 600–1000 gsm	Thickness under load, static puncture

I keep the language simple on drawings and RFQs. I tie acceptance to test methods and lot numbers. This reduces disputes and keeps crews moving.

How do you lay geotextile fabric step by step?

Many crews rush the base. They skip prep. They lay fabric loose. The result is ruts and waves.

I prepare the subgrade, trim high spots, remove organics, and compact to a uniform, firm surface. I roll out geotextile fabric in the traffic direction, keep overlaps straight, pin the sheet, and place aggregate in thin lifts. I compact each lift before the next. I lock the edges so the fabric never shows.

Site prep that makes compaction easy

I start by stripping sod, roots, and topsoil. I remove mud pockets and backfill with granular material. I shape the subgrade with a crown or crossfall for drainage. I compact with a plate compactor or roller until the surface is firm under foot with no visible deflection. If the subgrade pumps, I reduce water or add a bridging layer before the fabric. I never place geotextile over standing water.

Roll orientation, overlaps, and pinning

I orient rolls in the main traffic direction so seams do not open under load. I keep overlaps at 12–24 inches for stable subgrades; I increase to 24–36 inches on very soft areas. I stagger seams. I pin with sod staples, plastic pins, or rebar pins at 1–2 m spacing on flats and closer on slopes. I pull the sheet flat without wrinkles but do not stretch it. I avoid sharp turns; I cut and re-overlap to follow curves.

Aggregate placement and edge control

I place the first lift gently. I never drive directly on exposed fabric. I dump on the placed aggregate and push forward. I keep lift thickness thin and even, then compact. I repeat until I reach design thickness. I install edge restraints where needed to prevent lateral spread. For driveways, I prefer timber, concrete, or metal edging. For yards, I tie the edge into soil with a shallow trench and backfill.

Quick step table for crews

Step	Purpose	What good looks like	Common mistake
1	Strip and grade	Firm, smooth subgrade, no organics or puddles	Laying over soft mud
2	Compact subgrade	No visible deflection under foot or plate	Skipping compaction pass
3	Roll out fabric	Straight runs, correct overlaps, seams staggered	Wrinkles and loose spots
4	Pin and secure	Pins flush, edges trapped, no wind lift	Sparse pinning
5	Place first lift	Aggregate placed on top of aggregate, not on fabric	Dumping directly on fabric
6	Compact and build lifts	Even thickness, dense surface, no weaving movement	Thick lifts, poor density
7	Edge restraint and finish	Edges locked, fabric never visible	Exposed fabric at borders

If you ask me how to lay geotextile fabric on a tight schedule, this is the path that keeps crews safe and the base solid. When buyers request mjy geotextile, I ship rolls with clear labels so foremen know overlap, pins, and lift rules at a glance.

FAQ

Q: Do I choose non woven or woven for a gravel driveway over clay?
A: I choose woven for separation and tensile control. It stops fines from pumping into the base and reduces rutting.

Q: Does geotextile fabric let water through?
A: Yes. Non woven favors cross-plane flow and filtration. Woven passes water too, but the flow is lower. Match AOS and permittivity to soil.

Q: What overlap should I use?
A: I use 12–24 inches on firm subgrades. I use up to 36 inches on very soft soils. I stagger seams.

Q: Can I drive on the fabric?
A: I never drive on exposed fabric. I place aggregate first, then I track on top of the placed aggregate.

Q: How do I stop fabric from showing at edges?
A: I use edging or a shallow anchor trench. I bury edges and backfill so the fabric stays hidden and protected.

Q: Which weight should I buy?
A: For drives and yards, I buy woven 150–220 gsm or non woven 200–300 gsm depending on function. I confirm tensile, CBR puncture, AOS, and permittivity on the PO.

Q: Can one roll do everything?
A: One roll cannot cover every function well. I select by primary function: separation, filtration, drainage, or protection.

Q: Where do I place geotextile in a retaining wall?
A: I place non woven on the soil side of the drainage gravel to prevent fines from entering the backdrain and pipe.

Conclusion

Select by function, verify simple properties, and follow overlaps, pinning, and lift rules. The base will last, inspections will pass, and rework will drop.